Monday, July 28, 2014
I'm finally back after a two month architecture design/build in Wilsall, Montana with the Artemis Institute.
Keep an eye out for a slew of new posts in the following weeks. - Spencer Stewart
This vintage coat was made in the 1930s and was sold in Boston by Lampelt sportswear, a manufacturer or sheeplined leather coats such as this and of grizzly jackets. The coat is made of horsehide leather, is double breasted, with a broad sheepskin shawl collar, handwarmer pockets, flapped cargo pockets and a belt. The back has a square cut yoke. There are button adjuster tabs on the sleeves. Inside, the jacket has a sheepskin lining, with blanket lined sleeves and brown corduroy trim. These coats were popular pre-war with motorcycle riders and as workwear in the fall and winter. The leather is nicely supple on this example.
Sunday, July 27, 2014
Although I can not find it in Sears catalogs post-war, this front quarter horsehide leather coat bears a c.1947 Hercules Outerwear label. The original bakelite buttons were replaced at some point with post-war US Air Force metal buttons, and the belt was removed. The brown mouton collar on the black leather is a great look. Inside is corduroy trim and a cotton, as opposed to sheepskin, lining.
Sunday, June 1, 2014
Monday, May 26, 2014
Monday, May 19, 2014
Another piece of vintage leather from my collection to illustrate the post I wrote a few months back on the history of Monarch leather jackets. This one's a real beauty, with unusual construction. Look at the way the edge of the jacket, lapel and collar are formed.
For those who are interested, I currently have this one up for sale. http://www.ebay.com/itm/271493775559
Tuesday, April 29, 2014
Here's one of these Sears D-pocket motorcycle jackets in the flesh. This is a later production one, late 1960s or early 1970s, with the early style "Leather Shop" label. Zips are all by serval, and the D Pocket extends to the side seam, larger than those on earlier models. The back and epaulettes have been studded by the original owner.
Monday, April 28, 2014
Sunday, April 27, 2014
There must have been a variety of manufacturers producing these motorcycle jackets for Sears. For a given year of production and style of label, surviving examples show a wide variety of design variations on the D-Pocket, particularly in how the corners are treated. Some have squared off corners and a well defined D shape, while others are more rounded off and blobby.
Saturday, April 26, 2014
Through the early to mid 1960s, Sears used the same advertising image of their D-Pocket motorcycle jacket year after year. These are probably the most common that you see today. These jackets were made under a variety of labels. Earlier ones were made under the Sears Hercules label, of which there were several versions over the production run. Some were made with Fieldmaster labels, other with Oakbrook sportswear, and later models with labels from "The Leather Shop".
After the introduction of the steerhide version of the Sears D Pocket, the horsehide one was dropped. The sewn on patch d-pocket of the earlier models gave way to one which was defined by stitching. The cigarette pocket went from a patch to a interior pocket.
Friday, April 25, 2014
By this point, the horsehide version had been slightly simplified, losing the zipper breast pocket. The cigarette pocket had round corners and a scalloped pocket flap. The plaid lining of earlier models changed to quilted red nylon. A less expensive steerhide model joined the horsehide one this year. Details were simplified throughout.