Monday, July 28, 2014

1930s Lampelt double breasted horsehide coat

I'm finally back after a two month architecture design/build in Wilsall, Montana with the Artemis Institute.  
Keep an eye out for a slew of new posts in the following weeks.  - Spencer Stewart

This vintage coat was made in the 1930s and was sold in Boston by Lampelt sportswear, a manufacturer or sheeplined leather coats such as this and of grizzly jackets. The coat is made of horsehide leather, is double breasted, with a broad sheepskin shawl collar, handwarmer pockets, flapped cargo pockets and a belt. The back has a square cut yoke. There are button adjuster tabs on the sleeves. Inside, the jacket has a sheepskin lining, with blanket lined sleeves and brown corduroy trim. These coats were popular pre-war with motorcycle riders and as workwear in the fall and winter. The leather is nicely supple on this example.

Sunday, July 27, 2014

1940s Hercules shawl collar horsehide coat

Although I can not find it in Sears catalogs post-war, this front quarter horsehide leather coat bears a c.1947 Hercules Outerwear label.  The original bakelite buttons were replaced at some point with post-war US Air Force metal buttons, and the belt was removed.  The brown mouton collar on the black leather is a great look.  Inside is corduroy trim and a cotton, as opposed to sheepskin, lining.

1929 Shawl Collar horsehide coat

Make us the finest horsehide coat ever made.

Shawl collar, sheepskin lining, corduroy trim.

Sunday, June 1, 2014

1951 D pocket

Rabbits foot and a bow tie.  What a combination.

Monday, May 26, 2014

Buco J-82 Vest

Here's a J-82 of mine (for a little while longer) that was cut down into a vest by its original biker owner.  It was made in the late 1950s by Buco, is made of steerhide, has talon zippers and a clean, simple D-pocket design.

Monday, May 19, 2014

Monarch Horsehide double breasted coat

Another piece of vintage leather from my collection to illustrate the post I wrote a few months back on the history of Monarch leather jackets.  This one's a real beauty, with unusual construction.  Look at the way the edge of the jacket, lapel and collar are formed. 

For those who are interested, I currently have this one up for sale.

Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Sears D-Pocket leather jacket

Here's one of these Sears D-pocket motorcycle jackets in the flesh. This is a later production one, late 1960s or early 1970s, with the early style "Leather Shop" label. Zips are all by serval, and the D Pocket extends to the side seam, larger than those on earlier models. The back and epaulettes have been studded by the original owner.

Monday, April 28, 2014

1971, 1972 Sears D-Pocket motorcycle Jackets

Moving into the "The Leather Shop" era, the jacket acquired the name "The Scrambler". 

Sunday, April 27, 2014

1969, 1970 Sears D Pocket motorcycle jackets

On the market for 20 years at this point, the basic lines of Sears's D-Pocket jacket changed very little. 

Sideburns, turtlenecks and hiphuggers are in, neckties and pleats are out.

Sears D-Pocket motorcycle jackets 1968

There must have been a variety of manufacturers producing these motorcycle jackets for Sears. For a given year of production and style of label, surviving examples show a wide variety of design variations on the D-Pocket, particularly in how the corners are treated.  Some have squared off corners and a well defined D shape, while others are more rounded off and blobby. 

Saturday, April 26, 2014

1960s Sears D-Pocket Motorcycle Jackets

Through the early to mid 1960s, Sears used the same advertising image of their D-Pocket motorcycle jacket year after year.  These are probably the most common that you see today. These jackets were made under a variety of labels.  Earlier ones were made under the Sears Hercules label, of which there were several versions over the production run. Some were made with Fieldmaster labels, other with Oakbrook sportswear, and later models with labels from "The Leather Shop". 

1958 Sears D-Pocket motorcycle jacket

After the introduction of the steerhide version of the Sears D Pocket, the horsehide one was dropped.  The sewn on patch d-pocket of the earlier models gave way to one which was defined by stitching.  The cigarette pocket went from a patch to a interior pocket. 

Friday, April 25, 2014

1953 Sears D-Pocket Motorcycle jackets

By this point, the horsehide version had been slightly simplified, losing the zipper breast pocket. The cigarette pocket had round corners and a scalloped pocket flap. The plaid lining of earlier models changed to quilted red nylon. A less expensive steerhide model joined the horsehide one this year. Details were simplified throughout. 

1952 Sears D-Pocket motorcycle jacket

Horsehide and plaid lined. Worn with the inevitable necktie and pleated slacks.